Price Guide

Real sold prices for N & HO model trains. Every comp links the sold auction and carries an archived screenshot as proof.

All comps

1. Photograph it — including the bottom

Top, both sides, and the underside. You'll need the bottom shot. That's where the answer usually lives.

2. Google Lens the side profile

This solves a lot of cases outright — Lens will usually name the prototype, like an EMD F7 or a 4-6-2 Pacific. But here's the catch: several manufacturers made the same units, and a photo of the shell can't always tell a Kato from a Model Power. That's what the rest of this page is for.

3. Flip it over and read the underside

Look for a brand name, country of origin, or catalog number molded or stamped into the fuel tank, frame, or truck sideframes. Most of the time, this ends the mystery right here.

4. Match the manufacturer tells

Same shell, different maker — here's how to tell them apart. Markings vary by era, so treat these as "look for," not gospel.

5. No markings at all?

• Couplers: the big Rapido loop means older or budget N scale; working knuckle couplers mean newer or upgraded.
• Wheels: blackened metal wheels point to quality makers; shiny or plastic wheels point to budget lines.
• Pop the shell: usually one screw. The chassis and motor are often stamped even when the shell isn't.
• Weight: a die-cast metal chassis usually means an older premium mechanism; all-plastic often means budget.

6. Still stuck?

Search the road name plus the road number plus the wheel arrangement — e.g. "Santa Fe 2341 4-axle diesel N scale." Road numbers are often specific enough to nail it.

Hi! And welcome to Dragginmasters trains. I buy, sell and repair model trains, but I'll be straight with you: I don't buy collections myself right now. I don't have the capital yet, and I'd rather tell you that up front than waste your time. So here's the next best thing: an honest list of people who do buy, and how to get the most for what you've got.

First: know what you're selling

Five minutes here is worth real money. The Identify tab walks you through pinning down the make, model, and manufacturer of any piece, and the Price Guide shows what things actually sell for. Walk into any deal informed — including deals with the buyers below.

Buyers who pay cash for collections

Sell it yourself: more money, more work

• eBay — the best return for most collections, sold piece by piece. Slow, and you're doing the photos, listings, and shipping.
• Facebook Marketplace / Craigslist — good for local, no shipping. Expect hagglers; works best for smaller lots.
• Train shows & swap meets — rent a table and sell direct. The Great Midwest Train Show in Wheaton, IL runs monthly with 300+ tables.
• Local hobby shops — ask about consignment or outright purchase. Even if they don't buy, dealers usually know who does.

I'm building toward buying collections myself down the road. When that day comes, this page will say so.

Support this project

The price guide is free, and it's staying that way. Every comp here is hand-checked against real sold listings. If this site has saved you from overpaying — or helped you price something right — here's how to throw a little back.